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I'm considering buying a 3D printer. Does anyone have suggestions regarding which one to buy? I'm looking for one that is as cheap as possible, but ideally one that could actually be counted on to work well once put together.
-Josh
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The computer and software also is equally important when considering this as some programs are more expensive and provide other features within them for doing this type of work.
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Well, I have access to Creo (And probably SolidWorks) through the university, or can use any of the free packages. I have a moderate proficiency in CAD. I'm just not sure which hardware I would want to use.
-Josh
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Why buy when you can make? You can get kit forms of the RepRap. I intend to buy one at some point.
Unless you want to print in something other than plastic? It costs about $1.5k to make a basic metal printer. I don't know about clay or chocolate, but those will be a lot closer to the $300 RepRap price tag I would think.
Use what is abundant and build to last
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To the question: Has anyone developed a nanoscale 3D Printer, Google replied with an encouraging list of articles.
The one I'd like to highlight in this post is dated October 7, 2019
The exact search string I used was: "nanoscale 3d printing"
At the right of the results top page is a set of images which may be of interest to those interested in Mars settlement.
Using a new time-based method to control light from an ultra-fast laser, researchers have developed a nanoscale 3D printing technique that can fabricate tiny structures a thousand times faster than conventional two-photon lithography (TPL) techniques, without sacrificing resolution.Oct 7, 2019
Nanoscale 3D printing technique is 1,000 times faster
https://www.futuretimeline.net › blog › 2019/10 › 7.htm
The reason this advance in capability is of interest to me is that it would be preferable for Mars settlers to be independent of the Earth for supply of electronic systems to run computers of all sizes. There is no need to insist upon the level of miniaturization demanded by the economic forces at work on Earth. Far more important will be the ability of the settlers to program a Nanoscale 3D printer to fabricate chips or circuit boards capable of the functions required, regardless of their physical dimensions. That said, the images shown on the results page suggest (to me at least) that the fabrication scale will be quite respectable, as compared to (for example) 1960's technology on Earth, which was sufficient to land on the Moon.
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We have a number of topics with 3D Print* in the title.
This one was created by JoshNH4H in 2013.... at the time JoshNH4H had not yet decided on specific 3D Printer hardware.
Some months ago I invested in a Crealty Ender-3 Pro 3D Printer...
This printer is near or in the bottom tier of the bottom subbasement of 3D printers. On the other hand, according to Crealty.com, over 800,000 of these have been sold.
I am hoping the machine will reflect the precision workmanship that this machinery requires. Certainly by visual inspection, I get the impression that the machinery is of good quality, but we'll find out soon enough.
During this evening's local 3D Printer meeting, which I attend via online, I unpacked the kit and showed the parts to the group leader.
His immediate recommendation was to see if there is a YouTube video covering assembly of the machine, because the "instruction manual" is a sheet of light cardboard 12 inches wide by about 18 inches long, covered with fine print.
That is excellent advice, and I will follow it.
In the mean time, in case there is a reader of this forum who might be interested, here is a link to the product:
https://www.creality.com/products/ender … 3d-printer
I will be happy to see any questions that members might have.
If there is a reader who is not a member and who would like to comment, please see the recruiting topic for procedure.
Update: There appear to be several YouTube videos about this 3D printer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibsOYzXduYc
I watched the first 3+ minutes, and confirmed this video is indeed about the exact model I have.
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As a follow up to #7 I have begun to assemble the Crealty Ender 3 Pro 3D printer kit that has been sitting in storage for some time.
I'm using this YouTube video as a guide:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DONqs6_fQ8
I have ** just installed the vertical posts. I note that each post can be installed upside down and inside out, so I appreciated the care with which Greg Adventure attempted to make clear how to install the posts.
The next step is to check the printer bed rollers. My system seems to be rolling smoothly and without slop, but Greg Adventure shows how to adjust the mechanism to provide the smooth operation that is needed for high precision printing.
The bed adjustment is 8 minutes and 30 seconds into the 41+ minute video.
Advertisements show up periodically, as the price we pay in a free enterprise society, for the "free" benefits we enjoy.
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Dr. Greg Stanley is discussing 3D metal printing at the ISS...
This is happening live at the NSS webcast ...
Successfully printed first part August 2024
3 more parts will be printed and they will be compared to the same parts printed on Earth.
The system was developed by Airbus ...
Challenges for 3D printing
Size
Temperature
Fumes
Can't use powder sintering in microgravity
Had to shrink the printer to washing machine size
Parts are limited to 9 cm by 5 cm (3.5 inches by 2 inches)
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Sealed metal box
Stainless steel wire - melted with high power laser
Melt area is about a millimeter
Printer atmosphere replaced with Nitrogen to prevent oxidation
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Image of metal 3D printer on board the ISS
***
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In Saturday's work session, assembly of the Crealty Ender 3 Pro advanced to 16:54 minutes in the video.
The power supply is installed, along with the computer that runs the stepper motors.
The Vertical stepper motor was installed, along with the threaded rod that lifts or lowers the print head.
Along the way the adjustments for the print bed platform were checked. These are adjusted to insure the platform does not move in the Z axis while it is sliding back and forth in the X axis.
The print head itself will move in the Y axis.
The power supply is able to accept either 250 or 115 volt AC input, so it was set to 115 VAC for the US.
The video presenter offered a warning that the next step might be a bit more difficult.
For anyone following along, here is a link to the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DONqs6_fQ8
Update: I'm at 21:45 into the video ... Two stepper motors and a set of three rollers are now installed on a bar.
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This post is about a 3D Printer design that features a spinning work platform.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoYPUCgJ-0E
One of the projects I have in mind for the traditional X-Y-Z 3D printer in assembly now, is cylindrical structures.
These would best be built on a platform that spins like a pottery wheel.
Sculpto Pro 2, 3D Printer *New in Box*Opens in a new window or tab
Brand New on eBay
$125.00
or Best Offer
+$45.11 shipping
raeidol (375) 100%
If anyone decides to buy this I'd sure be interested to hear how it works.
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Update on assembly of the Crealty Ender 3 Pro ... The next step appears to be adding the print head assembly to the X bar assembly.
In looking at one of two videos i am watching, at this point, I have NO idea how to add the print head assembly to the X bar, but clearly it is possible.
Update at minute 23:02 of video... Installation of the print head mechanism onto the X-axis support beam gave me a few anxious moments. The assembly has three rubber wheels that engage with tracks on the support bar. Two of the three wheels went on but the third balked. I finally persuaded it to go to work by pressing against the rubber tire until it decided to accept the constraint imposed by the track. Now all three wheels are engaged fully with the track and the print head assembly is moving smoothly in the +X and -X directions.
The next step is likely to be mounting the X beam so that it engages with the Y screw.
I'm looking forward to learning how that step is performed. The default is to place the X beam at the top of the vertical Z beams, and hand crank the Z screw to lower the X beam. That seems to me like a lot of work, so hopefully there is an easier method.
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At minute 28:46, the X axis belt is installed, and the X beam is mounted on the vertical beams, at the very top.
It turns out the X beam has to be lowered by hand, so that will take a while.
A small hangup occurred when it turned out the power cable for the print head had been wrapped around the underside of the printer for shipping. It took some careful untangling to release the full length for installation at the top of the vertical risers.
In the next work session, I expect we'll lower the X beam and install the top beam.
After that, all the electrical connections will be made and double checked.
The final phase would (presumably) be to go back around and tighten all screws that were left loose for assembly.
The end point of this process is in sight.
Update: at 32:51 minutes, the last bit of hardware is installed. The ribbon spool holder is secured to the top rail. The next step is to connect all the electrical devices. As a detail in case anyone follows the same video, The ribbon spool holder should be installed before the last bolts are inserted in the top rail. The reason is that the nuts to hold the ribbon spool holder are shaped to match the shape of the extruded aluminum top rail. They slide easily onto the rail before the last bolts are inserted and tightened. After the ribbon spool holder is installed, insert the last two screws and tighten them.
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"First Light" for the Crealty Ender 3 Pro...
At 39:23 in the video, we are ready to apply power for the first time.
All the connections have been made and double checked.
All the screws have been checked and double checked.
The plastic pipe between the feed motor and the print head is installed and double checked.
A RAM card (microSD) has been inserted into the port under the Crealty name plate.
The power supply was double checked for 115 VAC (default is 230 VAC for global customer base)
Power was turned on....
Initial success! The display screen lit up, and it displays:
Ender 3 Pro
Temperature 29 degrees Celsius and 28 degrees Celsius
X ? Y ? Z ?
Fr 100% (not sure what that means)
Progress bar: 0%
Ender-3 Pro Ready!
The next step is to perform self-tests, using the software on the microSD card.
As a reminder for anyone who might be curious about this process, here is the link to the video by Gregg Adventure...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DONqs6_fQ8
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This post reports a departure from the video cited earlier....
The software on the microSD card differs from the software on the machine assembled by the presenter.
Pressing the control button brings up this menu:
{Info Screen}
{Prepare}
{Control}
{Print from TF}
{About Printer}
About Printer gives this display:
Marlin
Ver 1.0.1
2020-04-25
Ender-3 Pro
www.creality.com
Selecting {Prepare} reveals the menu that appeared in the video:
{Main}
{Move Axis}
{Auto Home}
{Set Home Offsets}
{Disable Steppers}
I completed the Auto Home step, and the printer completed X, Y and Z homing maneuvers.
The automatic Z stop switch stopped descent about 1/4 inch above the print plate.
I'd rather have that (too high) than the descent having gone too far and dug into the print bed.
There may be (? must be ? ) an adjustment to be made, but that is for another day.
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The video by Gregg Adventure left the Ender 3 Pro printer fully assembled and operational, in the sense that the Auto Home feature executed correctly (as far as I can tell). However, the print nozzle is a full 1/4 inch above the print bed, so clearly adjustment is needed.
Unfortunately, there do not appear to be any more videos about the Ender 3 Pro printer in the very large collection of videos in the channel set up by Mr. Adventurer.
I asked Google for help, and it came up with several suggestions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2htZ1Habb38
I'll start with this one, in hopes it might pick up where Mr. Adventurer left off.
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The Ender 3 Pro printer I have was in preparation for sale in 2019. The MP4 video showing how to assemble the printer is dated April of 2019.
I visited MicroCenter yesterday, about 5 years later, and discovered that even on the low end of their line, Creality has implemented simultaneous Z axis lift screws. The machine I have is equipped with only one lift screw, which means the horizontal bar that the printed head moves across to perform X maneuvers is dependent upon the strength of the joint on the side where the Z screw resides. Somewhere in the intervening five years, someone at Creality decided to add a second lift screw to the machine. The two screws are kept in synchronization by a notched belt that runs across the top of the machine.
Today, I'm returning to the store in hopes of meeting staff who are advertised to know something about the ancient machine I have. Never mind I unboxed it last week! In the world of 3D printing a five year old machine is ancient. That said, there are (apparently) several hundred thousand of these running around the world.
I found a video showing that the machine I have is capable of very high quality prints, so I'm looking forward to learning how to adjust the print bed to make my first print today.
Update .... apparently the Creality Ender 3 Pro was issued with a USB connector other than the one on the machine I have. USB connectors have been evolving over the years. The one that is installed in the machine I have (ca 2019) is a mini-USB:
The Ender 3 Pro has a Mini-USB port, while the Ender 3 V2 has a Micro-USB port. Learn the ways to connect your Ender 3 to a PC! The Creality Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 are some of the most popular 3D printers on the market thanks to their stellar value for money.
How to Connect Your Ender 3 (V2/Pro) to PC/USB Port | All3DP
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The Ender 3 Pro printer is now adjusted so the print bed is close to where it needs to be under the print head.
No thanks to the sales person I consulted at the local computer store. It's not the fault of the sales person. The printer was built in 2020, and I bought it new in 2021, which is ancient history in Silicon Valley time. The sales person had (apparently) never seen this model of 3D Printer, so his advice was useless. On the ** other ** hand, he ** did ** know about the current line of 3D printers that contain three years worth of improvements.
Chief among the improvements is that the current generation has ** two ** Z axis lift screws instead of just one.
The advantage is that there is no strain on the weld at the single lift station. The accuracy of delivery of Z position over the life of the printer is thus greatly improved.
The new model is: Crealty Ender-3 V3 KE
Here's a link to a web presentation on the KE:
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/prod … qIEALw_wcB
And here's a YouTube video about the KE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkftzFD3f2g
Meanwhile...
The Ender 3 Pro is likely to be given an opportunity to perform it's first print later today if current plans hold.
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The Enter 3 Pro is printing it's first print...
The item chosen was provided on the microSD card that came with the machine.
I found a Canadian YouTube provider to assist with the steps after leveling the bed through inserting the print filament, warming the print head and bed, selecting the item to print, and starting the print.
I had to disassemble the system that feeds filament into the tube that carries filament from the drive mechanism to the print head.
There must be an art to feeding a new ribbon into the mechanism, but disassembly allowed for whatever hangup there is to be overcome.
The print is reported to be 3% done after 11 minutes, so this print will take six hours.
The link to the Canadian YouTube is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=deskt … j3Ag&t=299
Update: The print of a dog took just under 3 hours. The print is quite good (from my perspective). The sides are smooth
A print of a pig is nearly finished. This design is larger, so it will take longer.
For the record, the pig took 6 hours, while the dog took just under 3.
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The Ender 3 Pro has exhausted the supply of ready-to-print sample files...
The dog took just under 3 hours, the piggy bank took exactly 6 hours, and the cat took just under 6 hours.
Now I have to create some ready-to-print files from the models included in the software provided by Creality back in 2019/2020.
They provided a software package to perform slicing, but it has the distinct disadvantage of only running on Windows.l
A slicer called Cura is able to run on all OS, and since I have experience with it I'll probably use it.
I might try the Creality slicer just to see how well it works. It probably works well, but I'll have to set up a Windows PC to run the experiment. I have several here so just need to decide to allocate some time.
I've begun advertising the Ender 3 Pro for donation, but so far have received little interest. 3D Printing is light years beyond the folks in this community.
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The Ender 3 came with a collection of software including prints in various stages of readiness.
I have reported printing the three ready-to-print models.
Subsequently I decided to try to make a ready-to-print file from one of the "stl" models provided.
The first choice was a "Klein bottle" and I decided to try it.
A friend from the Local Linux Group suggested I look for more modern versions of the Creality slicer software than the early Windows version that came shipped with the printer. I was delighted to find a modern version for Linux. What I was ** not ** prepared for was the technical leap I'd have to make to use the new slicer.
According to ChatGPT4o, appimage is a technology that has been in the Linux universe since 2016. I've been totally oblivious to all that work behind the scenes. appimage is a technology that allows an app to "just run" on ** any ** Linux. It is (to me for sure) astonishing! I am used to having to install boat loads of support software to get something to run.
What I learned is that appimage depends upon a package that I ** do have to install, but once ** that ** package is installed, the appimage just runs.
So! I used the Creality slicer to make a gcode file for the klein bottle. The slicer warned me that the stl file would not print, and it was right. The printer made spaghetti all over the print bed when I tried to print the default stl model. However, the slicer offered to create scaffolding for the model, and when I gave it permission to do that, it created a gcode file that is about half way through a 9 hour print. It contains scaffolding inside and outside the model. I'm ** really ** impressed by how well the programmers dealing with this complex problem have solved it with software that appears able to deal with practically anything a human can throw at it.
I also downloaded the appimage for Cura, and plan to try it as well. Cura is offered by Utilimaker as a free slicer. I expect that the Creality slicer is intended for the Creality product line, but Cura attempts to serve a wider audience.
All in all, I'm ** very ** impressed with progress since 2016.
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This post will report on the successful completion of the klein bottle print, and the start of request item.
The klein bottle print succeeded, given the addition of scaffolding to support the structure as it was built.
The print took just under eight hours. The model is 4 1/2 inches tall and about 2 1/2 inches in diameter at the widest part.
The Ender is now engaged with the first "customer request" print. The "customer" is a gent who needs a new handle for a gardening trowel. The normal solution would be to turn a new handle on a lathe, and that may still happen. However, I've offered to test print a possible alternative, and that print is under way.
I used the Utilimaker Cura Slicer to prepare a gcode file given an "stl" file downloaded from one of many 3D printer web sites.
Here is what the top of the gcode file looks like. The actual file is nearly 7 megabytes in length...
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:9331
;Filament used: 7.6895m
;Layer height: 0.2
;MINX:108.798
;MINY:87.252
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:154.992
;MAXY:133.439
;MAXZ:103.6
;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:Creality Ender-3 Pro
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.8.1
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up a bit during heating to not damage bed
M104 S175 ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way
M190 S60 ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached
M109 S200 ; Finish heating the nozzle
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:518
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F6000 X114.119 Y95.606 Z0.2
;TYPE:SKIRT
Update at 32 minutes into the print... the control panel shows that the model is about 1/4 finished. It is about 3/4 inch tall at this point, so the final article will be about 3 inches tall if present trends hold. The advantage of 3D printing is that the model can be scaled easily, so my plan is to show this model to the "customer" and ask for a desired size. Then my plan is to use Blender to increase the scale, but some slicers allow for change of scale, and that would be even easier.
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Since the test print of the Klein Bottle with scaffolding, the Ender 3 Pro has been printing practically non-stop. The tallest object printed so far is a flashlight case that is over 200 mm tall. I've printed several test versions of a handle for a trowell, and the last one was done in green filament to match the gardening application.
I'm waiting for the customer to accept the green version. This 3D printer stuff is significantly different from the wood it is intended to replace, and it may turn out the difference in feel is too great. I've gone on to other projects that were in backlog.
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My current project is similar to the famous Russian nested dolls...
The first component only took 3 hours to print, but the next generation is going to take 18 hours.
The time is increased by my decision to use 60% fill.
That increases the strength of the object, but it has the side effect of forcing the printer to work in smaller steps, and that seems to be helping it to get started. The most critical phase of the printing of an object is laying the first layer. That layer must bind to the print bed. The print bed is a layer of rubber-like material that has a magnetic side underneath. The plate that the mat lies upon has an electric heater. The idea is to warm the bed so the plastic layer adheres to the surface of the mat. I've seen problems recently in trying to get the system to print the first layer. Setup for a successful print requires a delicate touch in making adjustments, and I am still learning the art.
The current project is similar to the famous Russian dolls (matryoshka).
The first section was small and took only 3 hours to print, but the next section will take 18 hours if I can get it past the first layer.
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The 3D printer about which recents posts have been reporting was manufactured ca 2019.
The 2024 version has a number of improvements... In an earlier post I mentioned the use of dual lift screws, which removes the risk of drooping of the support arm for the print head on the X axis.
Today, I played the video about how to set up the machine, and learned that the current version has two remarkably helpful features, and a number of others.
The most important and helpful feature is a self-leveling capability.
The second feature that is ** really ** nice is a filament loading and unloading feature.
A new sensor is provided, to detect when filament runs out.
There ** was ** a glitch, and it was only dumb luck that prevented loss of all the software and documentation that came with the machine.
Unlike the Ender 3 Pro, which shipped with a microSD card for delivery of software and instructions to the printer, this updated version uses a USB A stick.
The warning to avoid unpacking files onto the USB stick is inside the packed files.
In my case, unpacking happened accidentally, due to the inadvertent highlighting of the zip file during file operations. I was trying to copy the zip file to another PC, and accidentally hit enter on the USB stick, which caused an attempt to unpack.
This operation caused the USB stick to be destroyed. Fortunately, I had made a backup to a third PC ** before ** attempting the copy that failed.
Here is the warning that was inside the zip file...
Tips:
1. Please do not extract files to this USB flash disk
2. Do not store irrelevant files on the USB flash disk
Big help!
Better would have been to put a warning on the USB stick itself.
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