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House call done on the 2005 computer, seems to be not resettable as the dealer tools to interface while it could read all the codes it had no effect when changing the stored value. That said I could have a bad chip key, a bad receiver unit amoung other possible.
I see that spammers must have some free time on there hands...what a waste.
300 new members just this last month
Banned all of the others before that.
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For SpaceNut ... Updated My Hacienda following your conversation with RobertDyck about making breathable atmosphere for Mars population
0104 Atmosphere(breathable air) supply vendor #1 (make breathable air from Mars atmosphere)
0105 Atmosphere(breathable air) supply vendor #3 (make breathable air from Mars atmosphere)
0106 Atmosphere(breathable air) supply vendor #3 (make breathable air from Mars atmosphere)
(th)
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Updated My Hacienda posting content at its end
Keeping fingers crossed as trading 2001 & 2005 plus cash for a 2008 Subaru outback wagon that should be ready today....
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For SpaceNut re #253
Best wishes for success with the trade!
It crossed my mind that it might be worth while for the buyer to move both vehicles to a state where emissions checks are less of a problem.
I ** did ** find an interesting (to me at least) report on conversion of a Ford Escape wagon to a hybrid ... the vehicle delivered about 100 miles per gallon on the highway.
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Fords design uses the electric up to the 30 mph before gas engine comes on which is different than others which cut out sooner or only supply torque for the weaker engine.
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For SpaceNut ... Hoping your automobile replacement plan is working!
Today, RobertDyck passed along a tip for entering special characters into the forum posts.
The key element of his advice that I found most valuable was the insight that the web server (?php?) supports Unicode characters.
He then reminded me that Windows 10 (or in fact all Microsoft OS) support generation of special characters from within such programs as Word.
That reminded ** me ** that Linux supports a similar capability.
Not long ago, you improved my ability to search by telling me about the "*" suffix that can be added to insure that FluxBB doesn't look for strings that end in space or period.
Today, I tossed FluxBB a search for "faq" in the title line, and the results were null.
I'd like to suggest starting a FAQ Frequently Asked Questions topic in Meta New Mars.
Over time, that topic could build up quite a useful collection for regular members (who want to refresh) or for new members with a lot to learn.
Since the title of a new topic (probably) cannot be changed, before you create the new topic (assuming you decide to do so), here are a couple more
terms that could go into the text of the topic title: tips help
The result would be something like: FAQ tips help for members of NewMars forum
(th)
Last edited by tahanson43206 (2020-09-01 11:54:57)
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Just banned
Where is Administration newmars.com ?? by Pavlospws Interplanetary transportation
Where is Administration newmars.com ?? by Pavlospws Meta New Mars
Where is Administration newmars.com ?? by Pavlosgol Interplanetary transportation
Where is Administration newmars.com ?? by Pavlosjwg Interplanetary transportation
Matching IP and email simularities were all tells as was the usernames....
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SpaceNut,
I've already banned another Russian "VFD Repair" advertiser earlier today. They're pretty obnoxious.
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Just went back into the user list and closed more accounts from 8/7/20 back to when we indicated that we would only give them a chance to be forth right with real posts within a 30 day period or less...and that if none then the accounts are locked by the ban....
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For SpaceNut re bans and FAQ ...
Thanks for tending to the ever sprouting weeds << grin >>
And thanks for finding the Flux BB commands topic ... I had forgotten about it, so appreciate the reminder
That's fine (with me at least) as a place to store tips, even if they are not precisely about FluxBB commands.
I would like to note that this is the first time anyone has asked about placing ads. All previous spammers I have seen (here and in other forums) have just dumped their loads and headed on the the next victim site.
(th)
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For SpaceNut re advertising requests ...
You do ** so ** much to keep things shipshape here ... I am hesitant to ask for more .... Still, if you can find the time, please consider moving the advertising requests out of Interplanetary index level. I ** think ** you started a trashpile where they could go, if there is a need to keep them.
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moving topics to meta
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For SpaceNut ... thanks for moving those posts !!!
FYI ... I searched for Titan in the title of topics in Unmanned Probes, and didn't find it.
The Flagship topic would have been fine for the update, and I would have found it if I had searched ** inside ** the posts.
One saving grace is that the competition for funding means the Titan probe may ** not ** be a flagship mission.
The article lays out some alternatives that might allow a reasonably productive mission to be funded at a lower level.
One detail is that the size of the submarine could be reduced substantially by including an orbiter in the mission plan. If there is no orbiter, (to take care of communication with Earth), the submarine could handle communications from below the surface, but it would have to be much larger.
***
If you have a couple of minutes, and are in the mood for a bit of pruning, the post at the the location below might fit better in your weed bucket:
http://newmars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=9619
(th)
Last edited by tahanson43206 (2020-09-03 07:50:29)
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Seem my car is a piece of crap as its started to overheat...and google says that its a common problem for its design in the 2.5L engine for that 2008 year for Subaru.
Took care of that post....
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SpaceNut,
Every design has its flaws. Unfortunately, the customer is often the one who finds out what the problems are.
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For SpaceNut re #264 (with a nod to kbd512 #265)
I ran a quick Google check and found an unbelievable (to me at least) number of comments about this particular problem.
It ** seemed ** as though a faulty sensor (? thermostat ? ) might be the issue? It crossed my mind to wonder if the car (used as it obviously is) had any kind of limited warranty?
At least (I assume) it could not have been sold if it did not meet State emissions standards?
(th)
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As is does allow a vehicle to still be sold as the emission is part of vehicle inspection and not of sales or registration for use on the road.
Long day working on the cooling system replaced water pump, timing belts and radiator. Did the degas burp which happens for pockets of air trapped in engines cooling system. Its the super heated air that will cause in a normally pressurized system to block fluid flow by the pressure by the air bubble. Garage cost for this work roughly $700 but it cost me just the new radiator of $148...
But what you can not tell even with the normal head pressure test is leaking into the cooling system by this test as this is cylinder to exhaust or intake and not to the cooling to exhaust which is the gasket failures.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussio … 5_ds711540
Looking at cost and dyi for head gasket.
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For SpaceNut re #267
I read quite a bit of the thread at the cargurus link ... You appear to be in the same league as most of the posters ... torqueing your own headbolts is at the top of my list of diy expert level skills. I had a couple of WW II era uncles who could (and did) tackle projects at that level, but no one in the following generations has shown any interest in following their example.
GW Johnson is (of course) in that league, and other members of this forum may well be.
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The process of doing the work in the vehicle or out changes much on how the work can be done.
The video's of such dyi are helpful but it comes down organizing, planning and tools to do the work with lots of time.
video of the work engine still in car
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/c … sket.3963/
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/to … ing-issue/ covers testing coolant leak and cost for mostly diy as machining of heads should be done as well as checking for warping.
edit
cost for head gasket around $60
his shows typical failing points
https://scanneranswers.com/the-truth-ab … -problems/
https://itstillruns.com/head-gasket-sym … 44309.html
usual tells that you have a problem.
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For SpaceNut re #269
That video is 40 minutes long. It starts out on a confident note, and I wouldn't be surprised if the creator delivers.
Still, from my perspective, an undertaking like that would be daunting.
From the hop-skip-jump skim of posts yesterday, I get the impression folks around the world (eg, Australia for one example) are willing and able to tackle the challenge. I notice that the Australians refer to their automobile mechanics as "wrenches".
This as a learning experience on the mechanical systems level of a post graduate seminar.
All we (observers) can do is to wish you success with the undertaking, and an accurate eye on the torque wrench.
(th)
Last edited by tahanson43206 (2020-09-05 08:01:32)
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Spacenut:
If you have a leaking head gasket, you should be seeing one or both of two symptoms. (1) white steam in the exhaust stream after the engine and exhaust hardware are warm, and (2) bubbles of combustion chamber gas coming out of the open radiator cap once the thermostat is open.
That second usually requires opening the cap cold and then warming the engine with it open. In extreme cases (fully-blown gasket), coolant will erupt out the open cap because of the quantity of the gas leaking from the chambers.
What I have seen with the latest designs and aluminum heads is that almost anything will blow a head gasket today. Overheat accidents didn't do that so much with the older designs decades ago. However, the safety margins are much thinner in today's designs, and the overheat event happens so much faster that you have no effective warning today.
One thing to watch out for is today's lighter, thinner-material radiators with plastic header tanks. These typically must be replaced at least once during the life of the car, perhaps 2 or even 3 times. They fail in two ways: (1) leaks at the seam where the header tank joins the core, and (2) "death" of the plastic material due to age and heat.
Failure mode 1 shows up as dampness or stains along that joint. Failure mode 2 costs you a blown head gasket (been there myself). Usually some big crack or blown-out chunk of the header tank dumps your coolant in a matter of seconds while you are driving. You won't see the temperature gauge rise to warn you, if you even have one, because the coolant flashes to steam, and a thermocouple meant to sense liquid temperature will not register gas temperature. When the engine stumbles because of overheat (the first symptom you see), it is already too late: the head gasket is blown.
My best recommendation is look closely at your radiator. If you see weep leak stains, or if it has plastic header tanks and also 100,000+ miles, just replace the damned thing. You'll save ~$2-3K for the head gasket rebuild in the shop. Compared to the older designs, these are too fragile. While much more efficient thermally, they too-often fail suddenly and with drastic consequences.
GW
GW Johnson
McGregor, Texas
"There is nothing as expensive as a dead crew, especially one dead from a bad management decision"
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GW,
It certainly sounds to me as if what you're stating is that a more durable design virtually requires more weight and less total efficiency.
The entire reason these new vehicle and engine designs were created was to satisfy EPA regulations concerning emissions and fuel economy.
Is it time to revisit what is practical, in terms of emissions controls and fuel economy, with respect to building a truly durable machine?
With respect to using lighter materials to improve emissions and fuel economy, we've applied some aircraft engine technology to land-based motor vehicles, but it sounds like some of us don't want to live with the consequences of doing that.
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Kbd512:
Actually, what you said is exactly what I tried to say: "It certainly sounds to me as if what you're stating is that a more durable design virtually requires more weight and less total efficiency." It's true. Murphy's Law says so.
I think trying to optimize the efficiency and cleanliness is still the right objective function to pursue. But we have not yet applied the right constraints to this process, so we keep getting bad answers. Durability and ease-of-maintenance are constraints still not applied to this process.
Nor has "long life" been applied as a constraint, or else so many failures would not be traced to the improper use of plastics in hot environments for critical components such as radiator tanks. Same thing happens to those plastic components as happens to plastic dashboards. Heat, UV, both are fatal on shorter timescales than what has become the "life of the car".
GW
Last edited by GW Johnson (2020-09-05 17:14:07)
GW Johnson
McGregor, Texas
"There is nothing as expensive as a dead crew, especially one dead from a bad management decision"
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There is zero coolant in the exhaust and same for the oil. When the heat is coming on its hot but as you drive and the temperature rises it will blow cold.
Thats due to hot air displacing the coolant to the expansion tank dropping it from the high point in the system. This is with a pressure cap and thermostat which closes the loop building up the air bubble.
Will remove thermostat and try it again when cold.
The degassing or bubble bleed is done open with open espansion above radiator to remove air. This is a running car rev'd up to 2000 rpm to push cooant to all parts of engine. It never got overheated in this process even after running for an hour but put the pressure cap on and it overheats.
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Spacenut:
Your head gasket is leaking more coolant, under pressure on the coolant (radiator cap on), than when there is no pressure on the coolant (radiator cap off), whether or not you are seeing it in the exhaust. Running with no thermostat should help clarify a "muddy" situation.
You should be seeing bubbles of gas in the coolant while the engine is running that stop when you turn the engine off. They may be small, but they represent blowby gas getting past the head gasket via the same leak path. If you can see the top of the core through the open cap, you have a chance of seeing these bubbles. Otherwise, no.
You'll have to pull the head, have it milled flat (it is probably warped), and replace the head gasket. Be SURE to properly torque the head bolts. The newer designs are far more sensitive to this than any of the older designs. Many of the newer designs have been using torque-to-yield bolts. Do NOT EVER reuse such! Get new ones. You cannot tell the difference by looking at them, either.
One thing to check is your water pump. Is it, or is it not, pumping considerable volume of water? Some (not all) of these modern water pump designs can fail to transmit shaft motion to the actual pump blading. Depends upon how they were made. These things are no longer utterly reliable, the way they were decades ago with the dick-simple designs used then.
GW
GW Johnson
McGregor, Texas
"There is nothing as expensive as a dead crew, especially one dead from a bad management decision"
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